Red Medicine (Los Angeles, CA)

Red Medicine
8400 Wilshire Blvd
Beverly Hills, CA 90211
Dining date: 3/30/13

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Red Medicine is easily one of the city’s most controversial restaurants and it doesn’t really have anything to do with the food. Indeed, I think the outing of LA Times food critic S. Irene Virbila and the public admonishing of no-show diners has brought the restaurant nationwide attention, but it has likely overshadowed the food. More quietly, I’ve heard that the food coming out of Red Medicine’s kitchens are some of the more interesting, beautiful and delicious in the city, finding an ideal balance between Vietnamese influences and more modern American cuisine.

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I first sampled Red Medicine at the debut of revolving pop-up Test Kitchen in 2010, just before its opening in November of that year. Soon after the opening I stopped in for lunch, but it took me just over two years after that last visit to stop in for a proper dinner meal. I’ve been many times for dessert, but a full dinner was long overdue.

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Lawry’s (Beverly Hills, CA)

Lawry’s The Prime Rib
100 N La Cienega Blvd
Beverly Hills, CA 90211
Dining date: 8/12/12

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Lawry’s an institution in L.A., nestled in the middle of La Cienega’s ‘restaurant row’ since 1938. That location was the first of many for the chain, which now has restaurants internationally. Growing up in San Francisco, I visited the House of Prime Rib a number of times and always heard comparisons when I moved to Los Angeles. I first came while in college with my dad and found the restaurant eerily similar to my S.F. comparison. For what it’s worth, Lawry’s opened first.

The food at Lawry’s is not complicated or fussy. Sure there are some fish and other meat options, but most people opt for a slice of prime rib (sizing varies from a petite boneless cut to an almost obscene bone-in chunk of meat), served with horseradish, Yorkshire pudding, and mashed potatoes. Sides such as creamed spinach, creamed corn, sauteed mushrooms, baked potatoes, and asparagus are extra.

One of my favorite parts about Lawry’s is waiting for a table (imagine that!). In the waiting room are meatballs in a marinara sauce and house-fried potato chips. I must say they’re pretty tasty and it’s always a struggle not to eat too much. I always end up with a couple of small plates, though.

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Famous Original Spinning Bowl Salad crisp romaine and iceberg lettuce, baby spinach, shredded beets, chopped eggs and croutons, tossed with exclusive vintage dressing

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A large salad bowl is put on ice and literally spun, as dressing is poured into the bowl from high above.

Whipped Cream Horseradish grated fresh horseradish and seasoned whipped cream

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When it’s time for the main course, large silver carts are wheeled around filled with racks of prime rib. Yes, please.

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Five ‘sizes’ of prime rib are available ($35-$53); below are the three largest.

The Lawry Cut traditional and most popular cut

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The Diamond Jim Brady Cut an extra-thick portion that includes the rib bone

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The Beef Bowl Cut a double-sized cut with the rib bone

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A large slab of beef is put on each plate, topped with au jus, and served with the sides of choice. It’s quite a sight, for sure. I think the cooking temperatures were pretty spot-on and consistent (easier to do with prime rib than steaks), and I found the prime rib to be tender and juicy. There was a good beefy flavor and I particularly liked their au jus (ask for extra on the side). Total comfort food for me, particularly with the creamy mashed potatoes and gravy.

Lobster tails were available to add to the meal – $16 for one and $24 for two.

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While I thought the lobster tails were reasonably priced, I didn’t think they were anything special. You get what you pay for, I suppose. Save the money and upgrade for a larger cut of beef.

Similar to previous visits, I left my meal at Lawry’s content and full. Prime rib and mashed potatoes happen to be two of my favorite foods, so it’s hard to go wrong. However, prime rib is a relatively easy thing to make at home and I wouldn’t say the beef here is that much better than what a typical home cook can do. But hey, it’s still pretty delicious, good for large groups and has a sense of timeless nostalgia; for that, I’ll be returning here for many years.

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5×5 Chefs Collaborative @ Bouchon (Beverly Hills, CA)

5×5 Chefs Collaborative Dinner
Bouchon Beverly Hills
238 N Canon Dr
Beverly Hills, CA 90210
Dining date: 8/20/12

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I attended the first 5×5 dinner of the season at Melisse, but have unfortunately missed the last two due to some conflicts (Providence & Angelini Osteria). I was glad to be able to attend this latest one, which happened to be one of my most anticipated L.A. meals of the year. Having an all-star cast of L.A. chefs was part of it, sure, but there were four other opportunities for these 5×5 dinners. The difference-maker for me was the rumor that Thomas Keller (one of my favorite chefs, duh) would be around to survey the kitchen and meet & greet guests.

The guest chef for this dinner was Richard Rosendale of The Greenbrier in West Virginia. Rosendale will be representing the U.S. at the upcoming biennial chef competition Bocuse d’Or, something Thomas Keller has been strongly involved with. In preparation for the competition Keller has been taking Rosendale around the country to broaden experience and exposure. This was their latest stop (Rosendale revealed the next would be a stint at The French Laundry).

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Similar to previous 5×5 dinners, each chef prepared one course, while the home restaurant’s pastry chef created a seventh.

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We started with a few cocktails (left to right).

Moscow Mule 
Basil Basil Basil Hayden Bourbon, Normandin Mercier Pineau des Charentes, Fever Tree Soda, Fresh Lemon, Fresh Basil, Basil Simple, Highball
Blackberry Bramble Nolet’s Gin, Lucien Jacob Creme di Cassis, Fresh Lemon, Fresh Blackberries, Rocks

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We generally found the cocktails to be fairly watered down, which may have been partially caused by us waiting until all three were served (it took some time for the last one to come).

“Gougères” sauce Mornay with preserved black winter truffle

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The first thing to come out of the kitchen was this strong amuse bouche. The gougeres were similar to one of the signature starters at The French Laundry, albeit this one had a strong truffle flavor that really separated this bite. Hard to go wrong with cheese and truffles.

Sterling White Sturgeon Caviar Vidalia onion soubise, Hobbs Shore bacon, rye panna cotta & red ribbon sorrel (Rory Hermann, Bouchon)

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Next was home chef Rory Hermann’s dish. The caviar and sweet onion flavors were what stood out most, and I found the rye panna cotta to be very interesting – essentially a rye bread in smooth custard form. The flavors came together pretty well in this light starter.

A trio of breads were available this evening: the signature epi, brioche and multi-grain. I went with the first two; the epi was reliably good but I enjoyed the soft, buttery brioche even more.

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Cuttlefish Salad sea bean-green goddess, espelette, cuttlefish cracklings (Michael Voltaggio, ink.)

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Voltaggio’s dish featured a duo of cuttlefish – one in pasta-like ribbons and the other as fried “cracklings.” I really liked the texture between the delicate chew of the cuttlefish, crispy fried cuttlefish and crunch of the dehydrated dressing. The spring peas added a welcome sweetness to the overall plate.
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Santa Barbara Prawn roasted rosa bianca eggplant, shellfish & green zebra tomato jus (Josiah Citrin, Melisse)

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Perfectly cooked spot prawns, clams and mussels were smothered in a complex broth with earthy olive tones and a duo of sweetness from the tomatoes and raisins.

Pave of Leek & Halibut spiced “carrot”, truffle ribbon, sea cress, crystal lettuce, raisin purée & smokey leeks (Richard Rosendale, The Greenbrier)

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Guest chef Rosendale’s dish was a major disappointment. The layered halibut and  leeks was a good pairing, but way over-salted. On the opposite side of the spectrum, the accompanying carrot, tomato and “truffle ribbon” were rather bland and tasteless. While I hoped that the over-seasoned and bland would offset each other to create a perfectly seasoned bite, this just wasn’t the case.

“Risotto alla Milanese” stewed ossobuco & lemon pistachio gremolata (Gino Angelini, Angelini Osteria)

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Angelini reliably creates something rather simple and delicious in meals like this, and this was no exception. An al dente saffron risotto was topped with a tender piece of veal shank, while the gremolata provided a little bit of fresh citrus to counter the richness. A great balance of flavors – I just wish the portion wasn’t so tiny.
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Liberty Farms Duck Breast gratin of Weiser Farms tromboncino, smoked tromboncino purée & black mission figs (Michael Cimarusti, Providence)

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Cimarust’s duck dish was the final savory course. The duck was cooked a nice medium-rare and Cimarusti was able to imbue it with a pretty strong smoky flavor. It was complemented by sweet figs and some frisee; I’m not sure if the tromboncino squash made it to the plate.

“Le Vacherin aux Pêches Verveines” Frog Hollow Farms peaches, lemon verbena & chamomile bubbles (Allen Ramos, Bouchon)

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Dessert was a very simple, yet satisfying dish. Sweet peaches were paired with a meringue and a foam with floral and lemon flavors. Light and refreshing.

As a parting gift, we were given earl grey and pistachio macarons as well as a canele.

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I thought the food overall was good, but not great, and didn’t meet the expectations suggested by previous 5×5 dinners or the $150 price tag. I just didn’t think anything really stood out, and flavors didn’t quite come together as well as anticipated. I understand that even with an all-star cast of chefs, dishes often don’t come out as refined during a one-night special event in a foreign kitchen – it won’t detract me from attending future 5×5 dinners. Plus, my experience was definitely made up for by the fact that Thomas Keller was there working the dining room. I just hope that leek & halibut dish doesn’t make its way anywhere near the Bocuse d’Or judges’ table.

Chef Keller signing an apron. An apron with a bunch of notable chef signatures happens to be a great conversation-starter.

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Scarpetta (Beverly Hills, CA)

Scarpetta
Montage Beverly Hills
225 North Canon Dr.
Beverly Hills, CA 90210
Dining date: 10/13/11

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This was my first visit back for dinner since my truffle-laden opening night experience (though I did visit for brunch last month). This meal would be a lot different, for sure, as DineLA brought me back. The menu looked promising with both the polenta and spaghetti offered, though I was disappointed to see the spaghetti as an entree offering (I could’ve sworn it was originally an appetizer when the menu first came out). 5 appetizers, 4 entrees and 3 dessert choices were available at a set $44. I went for the polenta, branzino and panna cotta, and was also able to sneak some bites of a few other dishes.

Bread service was pretty good with a variety of breads and accoutrements including an eggplant caponata, marscapone butter, and a citrus-infused olive oil.

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As far as the breads go, the most interesting was this hearty stromboli with salami and cheese.

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Onto the first courses:

CREAMY POLENTA fricassee of truffled mushrooms

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Not quite as decadent as the white truffle-laden version I had last time, it was still a very delicious dish. The polenta was tasty on its own; warm and comforting, light and creamy. So rich, clearly there was a generous amount of cheese and/or butter in here. The mushrooms added an earthy depth of flavor that really went well. I tasted no truffle flavor as advertised, though.

PUREE OF EGGPLANT SOUP sicilian spiced lamb ragu, baby tomatoes & ricotta dumplings

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Puree of eggplant. Interesting. Not something I would typically order, but I got a chance to try someone else’s. Pretty good actually, the lamb really added a savory richness to the dish.

SPAGHETTI tomato & basil

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The classic. I’ve had this in each of my previous visits so I didn’t order it again, opting for the branzino instead. I think everyone enjoyed it though.

GRILLED MEDITERRANEAN BRANZINO saffron-cipollini puree, fresh ceci beans, calamari & tomato marmalade

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I liked the crispy charred skin; it had a subtle smokiness that I thought went well with the moist flesh. The squid added some chewy texture, while I thought the tomato added a welcome light acidity. The saffron-cipollini puree provided a little bit of savory sweetness.

ORGANIC ROASTED CHICKEN kabocha squash puree, caramelized cabbage, fegato & parmigiano emulsion

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SHORT RIB AGNOLOTTI garlic chips, toasted breadcrumbs & horseradish

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A well-made pasta, this one was al dente but felt very delicate. The short rib was a pretty meaty filling, while the breadcrumbs added some subtle texture.

VANILLA CARAMEL BUDINO gianduja chocolate sable cookies

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COCONUT PANNA COTTA guava soup & caramelized pineapple

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I thought this was excellent. The coconut flavors were clear and pronounced in the ice cream and light panna cotta, while the guava soup provided a complementary fruit flavor. The pineapple added more fruit and sweetness, without making this dessert overly sweet. Everything came together so well.

A second visit to Scarpetta for dinner was a good one. Clearly, much better than my brunch visit a month ago. Though this meal wasn’t quite as interesting and unique as the first visit, it wasn’t trying to be. The food was actually more comforting and somewhat homey…the polenta and spaghetti were clearly in that boat. Most importantly, I found the food to be well-executed and quite tasty. Is it my favorite Italian restaurant in LA? Quite possibly (though I still need to visit a few other spots, Angelini Osteria being one of them).

Previous Scarpetta posts:
Opening night | Brunch

Fogo de Chao (Beverly Hills, CA)

Fogo de Chao
133 N La Cienega Blvd
Beverly Hills, CA 90211
Dining date: 10/10/11

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Fogo de Chao is a Brazilian chain of churrascarias – restaurants that roast meats on open fires, a tradition that reflects the native gaucho way of life. Here in America, they’re often all-you-can-eat and offer a wide variety of meats. Fogo de Chao is one of the higher-end chains with an all-you-can eat set price of $57 dollars per person for dinner ($35 for lunch).

Whereas some restaurants serve smaller portions for DineLA or create separate menus (with higher-margin dishes), Fogo de Chao does something rather unique – the restaurant drops the price of their regular meal to match DineLA. As far as I know, it’s exactly the same experience, and the lunch options are the same as dinner. I had the Columbus Day holiday off, so it was a perfect time to come. At the $28 DineLA lunch price, it ended up being about half the cost of a regular dinner. Score!

At the beginning of the meal (and throughout), guests are invited to help themselves at an extensive salad bar. There’s dozens of items available, from a bunch of salads and vegetable options to smoked salmon and even a wheel of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Personally, I try to keep these items to a minimum on my plate, instead saving stomach room for more meat.

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Gaucho chefs roam the dining room carrying large skewers (swords?) with various cuts of beef, lamb, chicken and pork (around 15 different varieties). Each diner has a card with a green side and a red side – show the green side and the chefs will come to the table offering their selection; show the red side to signal a break. Meats are carved tableside straight to the plate.

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A few side dishes automatically come to the table as the meat service begins.

Seasoned mashed potatoes

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Caramelized bananas

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Crispy polenta

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Unfortunately, I think they forgot to give us one more side – warm cheese bread. The sides were solid though nothing special. I tend to like a starchy side such as mashed potatoes with my meat, so these came in handy.

PICANHA Our signature cut, this prime part of the sirloin is served seasoned with sea salt or flavored with garlic.

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A nice medium-rare piece, the key here was to get an end cut. The crusty exterior had a nice garlicky and salty flavor which really complemented the meat.

FILET MIGNON This succulent piece of meat is cut from the tenderloin and seasoned to perfection.

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This was cooked medium-well. Of course, the tenderloin is one of the worst cuts to overcook and I found this expectantly dry and mealy.

Wrapped in bacon.

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I didn’t try this particular one; a previous experience was unmemorable. However, I heard it was better than the previous filet cut this time around.

ALCATRA Cut from the top sirloin this piece of meat is tender and full of flavor.

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Another sirloin cut – quite good, though I enjoyed the picanha a little bit more.

FRALDINHA Cut from the bottom sirloin and seasoned to perfection.

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This was one of my favorites of the meal..it looked kinda like brisket. Really tender, juicy and flavorful – I think I had 3-4 servings of this one.

Garlic beef

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The garlic flavor was subtle, but like all of the other sirloin cuts, this was tender and had a lot of beefy flavor.

BEEF ANCHO The prime part of the rib eye, beef ancho celebrates the rich flavor and the delectable texture of this elite cut.

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Hard to go wrong with a ribeye when it’s cooked well, and this was a fine example. The other two in the party preferred this ribeye over CUT‘s domestic Prime ribeye (which costs twice as much as this whole meal). Bold words. I couldn’t quite agree, but this was a good piece and presented a lot more value.

CORDEIRO Fresh, leg of lamb sliced right off the bone.

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Not bad. My piece was cooked more than I preferred, but the flavors were there. Not overly gamey.

In chop form.

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Overcooked, dry.

PORCO Tender pork loin encrusted with parmesan cheese.

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Maybe my least-liked meat of the meal, this was just way overcooked.

Pork ribs.

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This pork was much better with a crusty exterior bark and tender, rich meat. A really nice smokiness was imbued into the pork as well.

FRANGO Succulent chicken legs and tender chicken breast medallions wrapped in bacon.

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A surprise of the meal. These were really good; a smoky flavor really came through with each bite of meat.

Chicken breast wrapped in bacon.

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Like the filet wrapped in bacon, I passed on this one too.

LINGUICA Robust pork sausages seasoned and slow-roasted to mouth-watering perfection.

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Solid sausage.

COSTELA Tender, juicy beef ribs cooked slowly to preserve their rich natural flavors.

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I don’t think these regularly come around – apparently you have to request it. A fantastic beef rib – rich, succulent piece of meat with a good beefy flavor and a crispy exterior. Very tender..

Desserts are regularly a la carte, but they were included for DineLA. Something sweet was actually a nice way to end this heavy and rich meal.

New York Cheesecake

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Key Lime Pie

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Tres Leches Cake

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I went for the tres leches. Not bad. Pretty sweet, but not overly so, with a really moist cake (no doubt aided by the milks).

Service was actually pretty attentive and repeatedly asked if everything was good. If we wanted a certain cut of meat, the servers were quick to send over the right gaucho chef with the meat.

Was Fogo de Chao the best DineLA deal? I didn’t try enough of the restaurants to say anything like that, but this lunch had to be up there. I think this was a steal for $28. There were some inconsistencies in the temperatures of some meats (a number were pretty overcooked) but I easily overlooked this at that price point. The quality of other cuts more than made up for it. Many times, a second serving of a previously-overcooked meat was much better. At the regular dinner price of $57, I’d probably have different standards. Still, there was a very wide variety of delicious meats and that’s hard to complain about.

Scarpetta Brunch (Beverly Hills, CA)

Scarpetta Beverly Hills
Montage Beverly Hills
225 North Canon Dr.
Beverly Hills, CA 90210
Dining date: 9/25/11

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I haven’t been back to Scarpetta since the opening night truffle tasting dinner last October, one of my most memorable meals last year. It’s not that I didn’t want to, but there have been so many other dining options as distractions. So, when my parents came to town and wanted to try their brunch, it was an opportune time to come back.

The brunch is served buffet-style, $68 including non-alcoholic drinks. Not cheap, but it’s a nice restaurant in a nice hotel. The food options feature a few dishes that can regularly be found on Scarpetta’s dinner menu, as well as a whole range of what I’d call standard brunch fare. Representing Scarpetta were a couple of crudo dishes and a couple of pastas, including the famed spaghetti. Other brunch items varied from breads and salads to omelettes and waffles, to a seafood and sushi bar, and a carving station featuring prime rib and leg of lamb.

For my stomach space, I focused in on the pastas, meats and seafood. There’s no way I’m filling up on pancakes or waffles when it could be prime rib, crab claws or spaghetti…but that’s just me.

Live music, a nice touch.

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Assorted Breads and Pastries

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Caramelized Cauliflower toasted almonds, fried capers

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Grilled Asparagus parmigiano, hazelnuts

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Grilled Zucchini hard boiled eggs, gremolata breadcrumbs

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Fagolini & Potatoes pickled onions

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Roasted Beets ricotta salata, pistachios

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Marinated Mushrooms thyme, toasted fennel salad

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Mixed Green Salad oregano vinaigrette

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Citrus Cured Salmon lemon, dill, horseradish

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Tuna “Susci” lemon, olive oil

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Shellfish: Kumiai oysters, Snow crab legs, Shrimp cocktail

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Assorted Italian Meats

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Customized Omelette Station

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French Toast

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Pancakes

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Waffles

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Assorted Sushi

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Assorted Cheeses

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Sliders

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Macaroni & Cheese

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French Fries

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Chicken Tenders

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Spaghetti tomato & basil

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Ricotta Ravolini baby stewed tomatoes

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Prime Rib barolo reduction & horseradish

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Leg of Lamb minted salsa verde

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I started in on the cold dishes first – the crudo, sushi and seafood. I thought the crudo and seafood were both good, while the sushi was unmemorable (my first sushi at an Italian restaurant?). I particularly enjoyed the crab claws – big, meaty and sweet. Between the two crudo I might’ve preferred the citrusy salmon, but they were both good.

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My mom started with a customized omelette as well as some of the cold dishes.

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I went for a “pasta course” next. The pastas were made frequently in small batches (approx. every 5 minutes) so as to keep them fresh at all times. I swear I heard “Fire spaghetti!” every time I walked into the kitchen. I thought the spaghetti was pretty close to what I remember for dinner service, which I was happy about. Like the carving station, the pasta station was constantly manned by a chef for quality control. I’ve never had the ravolini for dinner before. I found the pasta itself to be nice, but the sauce to be very runny.

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My next plate went in for some meats, more seafood and a few miscellaneous brunch items. I requested medium-rare for both meats and got it, and I thought they were both done well. The other items on my plate were mediocre – dry, bland sausage and soggy French fries.

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Back for more spaghetti.

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An impressive array of desserts were on offer from Montage Pastry chef Richard Ruskell, some of which I was able to try at The Taste. Really liked the variety here, and everything was sized to sample.

Assorted Desserts

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No way can I recall everything, but we were able to make a (very) small dent into the offerings. If a to-go bag was an option, I would’ve gone to town here. Unfortunately, I was running short on room in my stomach.

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My mom’s plate: bombolini, cookies, fruit tart and a panna cotta.

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I went for three desserts in a glass, from left to right: salted caramel budino, tiramisu and a spicy chocolate pudding with tapioca. I was quite pleased by all three of these, with my favorite probably being the tiramisu.

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My dad opted for more chocolate-based desserts including a tart, layered cake, cookies and a yuzu meringue tart.

Scarpetta’s brunch was good, but not great. For $68 I was expecting a little bit more, especially since the price doesn’t include any alcohol. Going in, I thought this would be a good way to get a taste of Scarpetta in a more casual setting, but it’s a very different experience. I felt this was more like “Brunch at the Montage” rather than “Brunch at Scarpetta” as the restaurant’s representation was less than I anticipated. The dishes unique to Scarpetta were very solid; I just wish there were more. The menu online, as well as previous reviews, had additional offerings (whole-roasted branzino, yellowtail crudo) so I was disappointed to see they may have cut back. It’s unfortunate since I’ve experienced first-hand that this restaurant has much more to offer. I’ll surely be back, but I’m sticking to dinner.